Latvian food is hearty, seasonal and rooted in the countryside: rye bread, smoked fish, dairy, potatoes, berries and mushrooms from the forest. Today Rīga also has a lively modern dining scene. The directory lists 851 restaurants, 875 cafés and 344 bars and pubs.
Dishes to try
- Rupjmaize – dense, dark rye bread, served with almost every meal.
- Pelēkie zirņi ar speķi – grey peas with fried bacon and onion, a classic.
- Aukstā zupa – bright pink cold beetroot and kefir soup, eaten in summer.
- Sklandrausis – a sweet rye pastry filled with potato and carrot.
- Smoked fish – especially from the Kurzeme coast; look out for smoked sprats.
- Jāņu siers – caraway cheese associated with the midsummer Jāņi festival.
- Riga Black Balsam – a herbal liqueur, drunk neat, with coffee or in cocktails.
Where the restaurants are
Cuisines on offer
Among restaurants that record their cuisine on the map, the most common are:
Dining etiquette
- Tipping around 10% is customary for good table service; check whether service is already on the bill.
- Many restaurants offer a good-value set lunch (dienas pusdienas) on weekdays.
- Reservations are recommended for popular places in Rīga on Friday and Saturday evenings.