:root{
  --brand:#9e3039;--brand-dark:#7a222a;--brand-soft:#fbeef0;
  --bg:#f7f6f4;--surface:#fff;--text:#1d1d1f;--muted:#5f6368;--line:#e4e1dc;
  --link:#8a2530;--radius:14px;--shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(0,0,0,.05),0 4px 14px rgba(0,0,0,.04);
  --font:system-ui,-apple-system,"Segoe UI",Roboto,"Helvetica Neue",Arial,sans-serif;
  color-scheme:light dark;
}
@media (prefers-color-scheme:dark){
  :root{--bg:#141414;--surface:#1e1e1f;--text:#ececec;--muted:#a5a5a8;--line:#333;--link:#f08f99;--brand-soft:#2c1a1c;--shadow:none}
}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}
body{margin:0;background:var(--bg);color:var(--text);font:16px/1.6 var(--font)}
a{color:var(--link);text-decoration:none}
a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
h1,h2,h3{line-height:1.25;margin:0 0 .6em}
h1{font-size:clamp(1.7rem,3.6vw,2.5rem);letter-spacing:-.01em}
h2{font-size:1.35rem;margin-top:1.8em}
h3{font-size:1.05rem}
small{color:var(--muted)}
.wrap{max-width:1200px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 16px}
.skip{position:absolute;left:-999px}.skip:focus{left:8px;top:8px;background:#fff;padding:8px;z-index:9}

/* header */
.site-header{background:var(--brand);color:#fff;position:sticky;top:0;z-index:5;box-shadow:0 2px 8px rgba(0,0,0,.15)}
.bar{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:16px;min-height:60px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.logo{color:#fff;font-weight:600;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px;font-size:1.05rem}
.logo b{font-weight:800;margin:0 2px}
.logo:hover{text-decoration:none}
.flag{width:28px;height:18px;border-radius:3px;background:linear-gradient(#9e3039 0 40%,#fff 40% 60%,#9e3039 60%);border:1.5px solid #fff}
.main-nav{display:flex;gap:4px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.main-nav a{color:#fff;padding:8px 12px;border-radius:8px;font-weight:500}
.main-nav a:hover,.main-nav a[aria-current]{background:rgba(255,255,255,.16);text-decoration:none}

main{padding-bottom:48px}
.page-head{padding:20px 0 4px}
.lead{font-size:1.1rem;color:var(--muted);max-width:860px}
.crumbs ol{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0 0 10px;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:4px;font-size:.88rem;color:var(--muted)}
.crumbs li+li:before{content:"›";margin:0 6px;color:var(--muted)}

/* hero */
.hero{margin:24px 0 8px;padding:44px 32px;border-radius:22px;color:#fff;
  background:radial-gradient(circle at 85% 20%,rgba(255,255,255,.14),transparent 40%),linear-gradient(135deg,var(--brand),var(--brand-dark))}
.hero .lead{color:#fbe7ea;font-size:1.2rem}
.hero-links{display:flex;gap:12px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:18px}
.btn{display:inline-block;background:#fff;color:var(--brand);padding:12px 20px;border-radius:999px;font-weight:700}
.btn.alt{background:transparent;color:#fff;border:2px solid #fff}
.btn:hover{text-decoration:none;opacity:.92}

/* stats */
.stats{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(150px,1fr));gap:12px;margin:22px 0}
.stat{background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:14px 16px;box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.stat b{display:block;font-size:1.5rem;color:var(--brand)}
@media (prefers-color-scheme:dark){.stat b{color:var(--link)}}
.stat span{color:var(--muted);font-size:.9rem}

/* tiles & cards */
.tiles{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(210px,1fr));gap:12px}
.tile{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:2px;background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:16px;color:var(--text);box-shadow:var(--shadow);transition:transform .12s,border-color .12s}
.tile:hover{transform:translateY(-2px);border-color:var(--brand);text-decoration:none}
.tile .ico{font-size:1.6rem}
.tile small{color:var(--muted)}
.cards{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(280px,1fr));gap:14px}
.cards.cats{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(340px,1fr))}
.cards.cats3{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(260px,1fr))}
.card{background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:16px 18px;box-shadow:var(--shadow);min-width:0}
.card h2,.card h3{margin:0 0 .4em}
.card h2{font-size:1.15rem}
.card p{margin:.3em 0}
.card .ico{margin-right:8px}
.count{font-weight:600;color:var(--brand)}
@media (prefers-color-scheme:dark){.count{color:var(--link)}}
.muted{color:var(--muted);font-size:.9rem}
.sublist{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:.6em 0 0;columns:2;column-gap:18px;font-size:.93rem}
.sublist.cols{columns:3}
.sublist li{break-inside:avoid;padding:2px 0}
@media (max-width:700px){.sublist,.sublist.cols{columns:1}}

.place h3{font-size:1.05rem;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
.place .meta{color:var(--muted);font-size:.88rem}
.place .desc{font-size:.92rem}
.facts{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:.5em 0;font-size:.92rem}
.facts li{display:flex;gap:8px;padding:2px 0;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
.facts .i{flex:0 0 auto;width:1.3em}
.map{font-size:.85rem;font-weight:600}

/* chips */
.chips{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px}
.chips li a,.chips.static li{display:inline-block;background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:999px;padding:6px 12px;font-size:.9rem;color:var(--text)}
.chips li a:hover{border-color:var(--brand);text-decoration:none;color:var(--brand)}
.chips small{margin-left:4px}

/* bars */
.bars{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}
.bars li{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(120px,280px) 1fr auto;gap:10px;align-items:center;padding:5px 0;font-size:.93rem}
.bt{height:10px;background:var(--brand-soft);border-radius:99px;overflow:hidden}
.bt span{display:block;height:100%;background:var(--brand);border-radius:99px}
.bv{font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;white-space:nowrap}
.bl{overflow:hidden;text-overflow:ellipsis;white-space:nowrap}
@media (max-width:600px){.bars li{grid-template-columns:1fr auto}.bt{grid-column:1/-1;order:3}}
.two{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:28px}
@media (max-width:860px){.two{grid-template-columns:1fr}}

/* tables */
.table-wrap{overflow-x:auto;background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
table{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;font-size:.93rem}
th,td{padding:10px 12px;text-align:left;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);vertical-align:top}
th{font-size:.8rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.04em;color:var(--muted);background:var(--bg)}
tr:last-child td{border-bottom:0}
.num{text-align:right;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;white-space:nowrap}
.co strong{font-weight:650}
.co small{display:block}
.rk{color:var(--muted)}
.form{display:inline-block;font-size:.72rem;font-weight:700;padding:1px 6px;border-radius:6px;background:var(--brand-soft);color:var(--brand);vertical-align:middle}
@media (prefers-color-scheme:dark){.form{color:var(--link)}}
@media (max-width:760px){
  table.companies thead{display:none}
  table.companies tr{display:block;padding:12px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
  table.companies td{display:block;border:0;padding:2px 0;text-align:left}
  table.companies td[data-l]:before{content:attr(data-l) ": ";color:var(--muted);font-size:.85rem}
  table.companies td.rk{display:inline;float:right}
}

/* pager */
.pager{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px;margin:20px 0;align-items:center}
.pager a,.pager span{padding:7px 12px;border-radius:9px;border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--surface);font-size:.92rem}
.pager .cur{background:var(--brand);color:#fff;border-color:var(--brand)}
.pager .gap{border:0;background:none}

/* misc */
.links{padding-left:1.2em}
.links li{padding:3px 0}
.callout{background:var(--brand-soft);border-left:4px solid var(--brand);padding:12px 16px;border-radius:8px}
.back{margin-top:24px}
.prose{max-width:820px}
.prose p,.prose li{font-size:1.02rem}
.faq{max-width:860px}
.faq details{background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;padding:12px 16px;margin:8px 0}
.faq summary{cursor:pointer;font-weight:600}
.city-group h2 small{font-size:.9rem;font-weight:500}
.city-group .cards{margin-top:14px}

/* footer */
.site-footer{background:#1b1b1d;color:#cfcfd2;padding:40px 0 28px;font-size:.92rem}
.site-footer a{color:#fff}
.site-footer h2{font-size:.95rem;color:#fff;margin:0 0 .8em;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.05em}
.fcols{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(200px,1fr));gap:24px}
.fcols ul{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}
.fcols li{padding:3px 0}
.attr{color:#a0a0a4;margin-top:22px;font-size:.85rem}
.attr a{color:#d8d8db;text-decoration:underline}
@media (max-width:600px){.site-header{position:static}.stats{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.stat b{font-size:1.25rem}.hero{padding:30px 20px}}